Micro-Blaster™ Tips and Tricks

This section is dedicated to tips and tricks we have gathered from the field.  Some basic ‘how to’ guides and advice that may help you be more productive with your Micro-Blaster.

Air Tank Conversion

Situation:  You have your own air tank, but the Micro-Blaster will not connect to the tank.
Air Tank Conversion Solution:  AIR TANK CONVERSION FOR USE WITH THE MICRO-BLASTER IIx3 KIT In order to use a 5, 7, or 10 gallon portable air tank as the air source for triggering the Micro-Blaster IIx3 System, you will first need to unthread the hose assembly from the valve block of your tank. In its place on the tank valve block, install a compatible quick connect fitting (description below). Be sure to use thread sealant or Teflon™ pipe tape on the 1/4" male pipe thread end of the quick connect fitting to prevent leakage from the charged tank at this connection. We recommend 2 complete wraps around the threads if using Teflon™ tape. Note: tightly wind tape in a clockwise direction around the fitting. (when viewed from the threaded end). If using pipe sealant use liberally but do not allow it to flow into the fitting as this may cause problems with the function of your system. With the tank filled with air and the valve on the tank open, test this connection with some soapy water to make certain you have sealed the threads completely. If bubbles appear you will need to tighten the connection until they no longer appear. Your new tank is now ready for use with your Micro-Blaster IIx3 System.  Always follow tank manufacturers warnings and do not over inflate the tank beyond their recommendations! To use the hose assembly that you have just removed from the tank you will need to install a quick connect plug (description below) on the threaded end of the hose assembly. Use either Teflon tape or pipe sealant and thread this fitting onto the hose assembly, checking for leaks. This will allow you to fill tires etc. with your tank as well as trigger Micro-Blaster II single head systems by momentary attachment to the tire valve fitting on the end of the Micro-Blaster II hose assembly (single head system). Parts Needed:
  • 1/4" Industrial Interchange Quick Coupler w/ 1/4" male pipe thread
  • 1/4" Industrial Interchange Quick Connect Plug w/ 1/4" female pipe thread
  • Teflon™ pipe sealing tape or pipe sealant

Air Tank Conversion Kit

Air Tank Conversion Kit For your convenience we have put together a kit containing the above components. Ask your Dealer or Ezebreak for the Air Tank Conversion Kit (Part# MBIIx3-ATCK) if you cannot easily find these components locally.

Breaking Bedrock With the Micro-Blaster™

Breaking free boulders is easy for the Micro-Blaster. Lot’s of pressure inside the rock and little or no pressure outside. Bedrock poses a unique problem. Bedrock can extend beyond your dig area, And therefore offers no free edge on which to start breaking. The solution turns out to be quite simple. Start by creating a crater in the bedrock using your Micro-Blaster.
Breaking Bedrock, Getting Started
Drill your holes at an angle, So the shot will cause the rock to break... UP.  Drop in your cartridges.  Set the heads.  And blast.
Breaking Bedrock, First Blasts
Remove the loose rock.
Breaking Bedrock, Removing Rubble
Now, working from the crater’s edges the Micro-Blaster can chop away at the bedrock, making more manageable pieces.
Breaking Bedrock, Next Round of Blasting
Using the triple head attachment you can imagine your new Micro-Blaster taking out an even larger swath per shot.

Articles of Interest

Journal of Light Construction

Rock Breaking With Micro Blaster May 2014

USDA and USDOT Recreation, Safety and Health Tips

Using the BMS (now Ezebreak) Micro-Blaster for Trail Work November 2005

Primer - Drilling Holes in Rocks

In the development of the MICRO-BLASTER we learned a great deal about drilling small (5/16 inch diameter), deep (9 inch) holes in rock and masonry. Normal rotary drills, even when equipped with carbide tipped masonry drill bits, proved to be almost totally ineffective and are not recommended. Drills described by their manufacturers as "hammer drills" are usually only slightly more effective. From what we can gather these "hammer drills" utilize a mechanism which imparts a strong vibration to the drill bit when rotating. This aids the progress of the hole drilling operation in hard rock only marginally. The most effective class of tools are known as "rotary hammers" and seem to be the best choice for efficiently drilling the type of holes required for the MICRO-BLASTER system. Within this class of tools, drills which are rated for drilling 3/4 to 1 inch diameter holes will perform quite well giving a good balance between cost and drilling speed. Drills rated for larger diameter holes may overheat the relatively small 5/16 inch bits required for the MICRO-BLASTER, causing premature failure of the bit when drilling particularly hard materials. Within this class of tools several drill shank (the end of the drill bit that connects to the drill) and chuck (the part of the drill that holds the drill bit) configurations are available. The most commonly available style is known as SDS or SDS+. This shank/chuck configuration allows the bit to be rotated and yet free to move in response to the relatively heavy hammering action of the "rotary hammer" mechanism.SDS "rotary hammers" and bits are available from many large hardware outlets across the country (US). Most of the models we have seen in stores operate on 110 volt power and will need an accessory generator for use in remote areas. There are also some rechargeable battery operated "rotary hammer" drills which eliminate the need for a generator. However they are usually several times more expensive than the 110 volt powered models. If your use requires extreme portability, i.e. equipment must be packed to the work site, these tools are highly recommended.Manufacturers of these battery operated tools that we have had good experiences with include: Hilti, Bosch, and Dewalt. The 36 volt TE6-A Hilti is our favorite, the Bosch Bulldog second and the Dewalt 24 volt model third in overall performance. As in most things the most expensive tool performed the best. If you have a generator or inverter and rarely need to drill in locations remote to where you can easily transport it, the cheaper 110 volt "rotary hammer" drills are the the recommended way to go. These tools are as a rule just as effective as most battery operated models at up to 1/5th of the cost. Of course, if all your drilling will be within 100 ft. of a 110 volt outlet all you will need is an appropriately sized extension cord and cheaper 110 volt "rotary hammer" drill.

Drilling Holes for MICRO-BLASTING

Regardless of what drill you use you will need to drill holes in the material you wish to crack as straight as possible. The tip of the MICRO-BLASTER actuator tube, which fits in the drilled hole is exactly 5/16 in in diameter. SDS carbide tipped drill bits, marked 5/16 inch, when new, will drill holes slightly larger than this. This extra clearance will allow for the slight unavoidable variances in straightness in the hole as it is drilled. As drill bits wear from use their diameter can decrease so it is important to use relatively new and sharp bits with the MICRO-BLASTING process. The manual supplied with the MICRO-BLASTER KIT goes into detail on this subject.
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